Pulp: A Practical Guide to Cooking with Fruit

Description

An Eater Best Cookbook of Spring 2023 First vegetables, then grains, and now, fruit. This is the beautiful follow-up to Abra Berens's Ruffage and Grist, with more than 215 recipes and variations for using fruit in sweet and savory recipes to highlight seasonality and flavor. Pulp is a hardworking book of recipes that focuses on all the ways fruit can enhance simple, delicious mains—for example, by elevating roasted vegetables, garnishing soup, or adding perfume to a roasted pork or brisket. Unlike Ruffage and Grist, Pulp is about regularly incorporating fruit to add variety and seasonality to main dishes. Home cooks and bakers alike will rejoice in the alternately sweet and savory recipes such as Roast Chicken over Blueberries, Cornbread + Lemon; Melon, Cucumber + Chickpea Salad; and Rum-Plum Clafoutis. The book also features helpful reference material, a Baker's Toolkit, and more than 100 atmospheric photos, delivered with the can-do attitude and accessibility of the Midwestern United States. This next generous offering from beloved, trusted author Abra Berens is a necessary addition to any kitchen shelf alongside its predecessors and other mainstays like Plenty, Six Seasons, and Small Victories. THIS IS THE A TO Z OF FRUIT: The content is deep and authoritative, but also wide-ranging, with information and recipes for 15 different, widely accessible fruit varieties: Apples, Apricots, Blueberries, Cherries, Drupelet Berries (blackberries, raspberries, mulberries), Grapes, Ground Cherries (a.k.a. cape gooseberries), Melons, Nectarines + Peaches, Pears, Plums, Quince, Rhubarb, Strawberries, and Tart Round Fruits (cranberries, currants, gooseberries, lingonberries + autumn olive). Pulp features only fruits that grow in the Midwestern United States, so no bananas, passion fruit, or citrus here. CULINARY REFERENCE BOOK: Like Ruffage and Grist before it, Pulp is a truly useful reference cookbook. Organized by type of fruit, each chapter offers authoritative info and tips that the home cook can use to deepen their knowledge of ingredients and broaden their repertoire of techniques—all in the service of improving their meals. The recipes are simple, generally quick to prepare, and use ingredients that are easy to find and often already in your pantry. Plus, the many variations empower home cooks to flex their creativity and trust themselves in the kitchen. ONGOING SUCCESS: Ruffage was named a Best Cookbook for Spring 2019 by the New York Times and Bon Appétit, was a 2020 Michigan Notable Book winner, and was nominated for a 2019 James Beard Award. Grist was named a Best Cookbook for Fall 2021 by Eater and received a starred review from Publishers Weekly. Here's some strong praise for both books:  "Things in my kitchen have changed since Ruffage arrived. This organized, easygoing guide to 29 vegetables offers a few cooking methods for each one, supplemented by several variations." —Kim Severson, New York Times "[Ruffage] is a total classic in the making."—Christina Chaey, associate editor, Bon Appétit "Crammed with exciting ideas that encourage creativity, this lively book will quickly become an essential item in the home cook's library."—Library Journal (starred review) "[In Grist,] Berens encourages readers to start with ingredients they're excited about. . . . Interspersed features highlight working farmers and their areas of specialty, serving to illustrate issues that inform Berens's ethics and worldview." —Booklist "[In Grist,] Berens strolls through each category with representative methods (such as boiled, fried, and sprouted) with an eye toward variety and versatility over 125 recipes."—Chicago Reader DISTINCTIVE: In a super-chunky package (432 pages!) brimming with photos and accessible, delicious recipes, Pulp is not just a reference cookbook but a beautiful one at that. The three cookbooks are perfect for gifting together as a set to a lucky friend. Perfect for:Recreational cooks of all skill levels, from beginners looking to master a few dependable techniques to seasoned cooks who want recipes and strategies for easy weeknight meals with more healthy ingredientsPlus for bakers: One third of Pulp's content is baking recipes!Anyone looking for creative fruit recipes or new inspiration for whole food cookingFans of Abra Berens and her previous cookbooksGift selection for cookbook collectors and fans of Alice Waters, Yotam Ottolenghi, Molly Yeh, and Joshua McFadden who are looking for the next great healthy eating cookbookThe next must-have reference cookbook for lovers of Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat Cover Half Title Title Page Copyright Dedication Foreword Contents Introduction How to Use This Book—and Some Things to Know Glossary of Terms Part 1: Baker’s Toolkit Breads Batters Crackers Crusts Doughs Cakes Cookies Crunchy Stuff + Toppings Creamy Stuff Curds Frozen Stuff Meringue Pie Filling Puddings Syrups Pickle Liquids Part 2: Fruits and How I Prepare Them Apples Producer Profile: Agatha Achindu Raw Savory: Apple “Salad" Sweet: Peanut Butter Apple Stacks Roasted Savory: AA++ Salad Sweet: Apple Butterscotch Pudding W/Candied Nuts Poached Savory: Roast Chicken W/Rosemary-Poached Apples Sweet: Chilled Poached Apples + Almond Cookies Stewed Savory: Snow Melt Stew Sweet: Apple Crepe Cake W/Sherry Custard Baked Savory: One-Pan Sunday Roast Sweet: Apples in Pajamas Preserved Apricots Raw Savory: Shattering Cheese + Apricot Salad Sweet: Apricots, Rosemary Sabayon + Almond Brutti Ma Buoni Grilled Savory: Grilled Chicken W/Apricots, Red Onion + Basil Sweet: Brittle-Topped Grilled Apricots Roasted Savory: Leg of Lamb W/Apricot Bulgur, Herbs + Toum Sweet: Torrijas Caramelizadas W/Apricots Poached Savory: Ginger-Poached Apricots Over Salmon, Choi + Chili Oil Sweet: Rosé-Poached Apricots + Earl Grey Semifreddo Baked Savory: Apricot Grilled Cheese Sandwich Sweet: Burnt Apricot Tarts Preserved Blueberries Raw Savory: Salad of Oat Groats, Blueberries, Chicories + Buttermilk Sweet: Blueberry Puffies Baked Savory: Roast Chicken Over Blueberries, Cornbread + Lemon Sweet: Blueberry Spelt Muffins Roasted Savory: Venison (or Lamb) W/Parsnips + Blueberry Sauce Sweet: Blueberries + Griddled Cake Preserved Cherries Producer Profile: Nikki Rothwell Raw Savory: Brined Cherries + Salty Snacks Sweet: Chocolate Pudding W/Coffee-Soaked Black Cherries Baked Savory: Cherry Baked Brie W/Seedy Crackers Sweet: Cherry Pie Grilled/Roasted Savory: Buttermilk Pork Tenderloin + Grilled Cherry Salad Sweet: Tart Cherry Syllabub + Smashed Almond Brutti Ma Buoni Preserved Drupelet Berries: Raspberries, Blackberries + Mulberries Raw Savory: Roasted Carrots with Raspberries, Beet Cream, Chili Oil + Cacao Nibs Sweet: Lemon Soufflé W/Blackberries + Olive Oil Roasted Savory: Chicken Liver Mousse, Roasted Raspberries + Oatcakes Sweet: Coconut Tapioca Pudding W/Roasted Mulberries + Lime Baked Savory: Baked Ricotta W/Black Pepper Raspberries + A Big Salad Sweet: Raspberry Surprise Crème Brûlée Preserved Grapes Producer Profile: Michael + Peter Laing Raw Savory: Butter Lettuce, Grape, Fennel, Walnut + Buttermilk Salad Sweet: Grape Salad Over Lime Sorbet Roasted Savory: Pan-Roasted Parsnips W/Grape Sauce + Pecans Sweet: Rice Pudding W/Sherry-Roasted Grapes Baked Savory: Ham + Butter Sandwiches Sweet: Grape Custard Pie Preserved Ground Cherries (A.K.A. Cape Gooseberries) Raw Savory: Red Cabbage Salad W/Ground Cherries, Cilantro, Pepitas + Lime Sweet: Ground Cherry Floats Roasted Savory: Cashew Cauliflower W/Ground Cherry Glaze + Toum Sweet: Basque Cheesecake W/Roasted Ground Cherries + Rosemary Stewed Savory: Super Grilled Cheese Sandwiches W/Ground Cherry Chutney Sweet: Biscuits W/Ground Cherry Butter Preserved Melons Raw Savory: Melon, Cucumber + Chickpea Salad Sweet: Cantaloupe Sundaes W/Black Pepper + Olive Oil Grilled Savory: Grilled Melon W/Tahini, Chili Oil + Sesame Seeds Sweet: Grilled Melon W/Grape Sherbet + Candied Fennel Seeds Preserved Nectarines + Peaches Producer Profile: Abby Schilling Raw Savory: Spicy, Sweet, Salty Summer Salad Sweet: Peaches + Cream W/Ginger Thins Grilled Savory: Grilled Peach + Ricotta Toasts Sweet: Cream Scones W/Grilled Nectarine + Goat Cheese Sabayon Baked Savory: Coconut Milk Shrimp W/Jalapeño-Peach Cornbread Sweet: Peach-Berry Cobbler W/Whipped Sour Cream Preserved Pears Raw Savory: Chicory Salad W/Shaved Pears, Walnuts + Pecorino Sweet: Sliced Pears W/Salted Caramel + Crumbles Poached Savory: Red Wine–Poached Pears W/Goat Cheese Sabayon, Pumpernickel + Pine Nuts Sweet: Chilled Poached Pears + Pecan Sandies Baked Savory: Pear, Bacon + Onion Tart Sweet: Ginger Honey Cake W/Pears + Whipped Sour Cream Preserved Plums Raw Savory: Buckwheat Salad W/Plums, Cauliflower, Mustard Dressing + Arugula Sweet: Maple Pudding Cake Topped W/Sugared Plums Stewed Savory: Stewed Plums Atop Oatcakes W/Ricotta Sweet: Plums for Breakfast: Stewed Plums Over Rice Porridge + Pine Nuts Roasted Savory: Ginger-Plum-Glazed Ribs W/Rye Spaetzle + Greens Sweet: Blintzes W/Roasted Plums + Hazelnuts Baked Savory: Plum Cream–Baked Pork Shoulder W/Turnip Mash Sweet: Rum-Plum Clafoutis Preserved Quince Producer Profile: Gene Garthe Baked Savory: Midwinter Pork Bake Sweet: Crumble-Topped Quince Stewed Savory: Quince + Lamb Tagine Sweet: Cream-Stewed Quince W/Oatcakes Poached Savory: Sunday at the Pub Sweet: Oeufs À La Coing Preserved Rhubarb Raw Savory: Poached Salmon W/Rhubarb Salad + Pine Nut Relish Sweet: Parsnip Panna Cotta W/Rhubarb, Orange + Olive Oil Relish Poached Savory: Pork Chops W/Rye Spaetzle, White Wine–Poached Rhubarb + Spinach Sweet: Rhubarb Cream Puffs Baked Savory: Rhubarb One-Pan Chicken W/Kale + Poppy Seed Salad Sweet: Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake W/Whipped Cream + Salty Nuts Preserved Strawberries Producer Profile: Rosalinda Guillen Raw Savory: Beet Carpaccio W/Strawberries, Flowers + Candied Fennel Seed Sweet: Strawberry Sundaes: Vanilla Ice Cream, Pulsed Strawberries + Meringue Roasted Savory: Lamb Chops W/Buckwheat + Black Pepper Strawberries Sweet: Dutch Baby W/Sherry Vinegar Strawberries Preserved Tart Round Fruits: Cranberries, Currants, Gooseberries, Lingonberries + Autumn Olive Raw Savory: Roasted Carrots W/Lentils, Spinach + Cranberry Relish Sweet: Eton Mess Stewed Savory: Squash Claws W/Stewed Currants Sweet: Gooseberry Fool W/Tortas De Aceite Baked Savory: Winter Casserole Sweet: January Cake Preserved Acknowledgments Index Author Bio Back Cover