Red Odyssey: A Journey Through the Soviet Republics
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With the breakup of the Soviet Union a reality, headlines are full of names of cities and republics unfamiliar to most Americans. In Red Odyssey, Marat Akchurin vividly describes these lands and people, taking readers along with him on a journey through the Soviet Moslem and other ethnic territories during their last days under Soviet domination. Red Odyssey brings to life the former Soviet Union’s colorful, diverse landscapes and cultures, from Kazakhstan, which remains in possession of large numbers of nuclear weapons, to Uzbekistan and Tadzhikistan, now being rocked by political and ethnic riots; to Turkmenia, one of the poorest regions in the country, populated by polygamous nomads; to Azerbaijan, which is locked in a territorial war with Armenia. Akchurin’s keen, perceptive eye, his taste for adventure, and his intimate knowledge of the former Soviet republics—their histories, cultures, legends, folklores, politics, and ethnicities—allow him fully to explore and describe a nation never before seen by Western eyes. Wending his way through the backwaters of this fractured superpower, he visits new towns and old haunts, friends and family, poets, artists, scholars, singers, outlaws, and politicians. The result is a highly personal, anecdotal, resonant portrait of the last great empire on earth in the midst of a new revolution. Acknowledgments, ix Prologue, 1 1. Preparations and Departure, 3 2. Never Stop at Rest Areas, 15 3. “What is Chuvash for ‘Glory to the Communist Party!’?”, 24 4. The Knight in the Tiger Skin, 37 5. The Equalizer, Chuvash-style, 48 6. Pushkin in Basra, 61 7. Good Samaritans, 69 8. The Golden Teeth of Marilyn Monroe, 77 9. “A Horse! A Horse! My Kingdom for a Horse!”, 88 10. A Meteorite on the Road, 100 11. “In the Land of Earless Dogs”, 110 12. On the Coast of the Perishing Sea, 122 13. Disposable World, 134 14. A Laurel Wreath for the Major, 148 15. Two Bullets for a Ride, 161 16. “The State...Is You!”, 174 17. The Steel Wings of an Engineer of Human Souls, 186 18. A Tea Ceremony in an Apple Orchard 198 19. Eclipse in Osh Province 207 20. “Many-Storied Buildings—Dwellings for Egoists” 220 21. The Hero’s Gold Star, 235 22. A Wake at Dawn, 242 23. Surgery Without Anesthesia, 252 24. The Unapproved Route, 266 25. The Fallen Angel, 279 26. Hats with Corners Turned Down, 294 27. Viruza Means “Turquoise”, 307 28. Samarkand, the Oldest City in the World, 317 29. The Disgraced President’s Granddaughter, 333 30. Bukhara Carpets with Anchors, 345 31. The Iron Smile of Krasnovodsk, 358 32. A la Guerre comme a la Guerre!, 368 33. A Girl on die Threshold, 379 Epilogue, 393 Index, 395
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