Textile Chemistry

Description

Textile Chemistry gives a detailed and explanatory overview on mainly chemical but also physical aspects of fabrics. It contains definitions, basic components and their properties, physicochemical processes, as well as chemical modification of textiles, highlighting the application of smart materials. The book also provides exercises and sample calculations, which makes it ideal for students and scientists in industry. Gives an introduction and describes fundamental chemistry applied in the textile industry. Especially suitable and comprehensive for students and industry starters due to different exercises and several calculation examples Cover Half Title Also of interest Textile Chemistry Copyright Contents 1. Textiles 1.1 Introduction 1.2 Spinning 1.3 Linear density – yarn count 1.4 Fabric formation 1.5 Textile chemical aspects in spinning and fabric formation 1.5.1 Spin finish 1.5.2 Sizing 1.5.3 Embroidery 1.5.4 Printing/coating 1.5.5 Garment production/assembly/joining 1.5.6 Technical textiles References Take home messages Quiz Exercises Solutions 2. Textile fibres 2.1 Fibre production 2.2 Fibre formation 2.2.1 Polymer-dependent fibre properties 2.3 Molecular mass/degree of polymerisation 2.4 Important fibres and their chemistry 2.4.1 Cellulose fibres 2.4.2 Structure of cotton/flax/hemp fibres 2.5 Relevant aspects of cellulose chemistry (chemical reactions, derivatisation and chemical stability) 2.6 Chemical reactions 2.6.1 Derivatisation 2.6.2 Hydrolysis 2.6.3 Oxidation 2.6.4 Esterification 2.6.5 Etherification 2.6.6 Complex formation 2.6.7 The secondary structure of cellulose 2.6.8 Methods of structural characterisation 2.7 Regenerated cellulose fibres 2.7.1 Dissolution of cellulose 2.7.2 The viscose process 2.7.3 Lyocell fibres – the NMMO process 2.7.4 Ionic liquids and other cellulose solvents 2.7.5 Cupro fibres – the cuprammonium process 2.7.6 Cellulose diacetate and triacetate 2.8 Protein fibres 2.8.1 General aspects of protein fibres 2.8.2 Protein structure – basic properties 2.8.3 Wool 2.8.4 Silk 2.8.5 Casein fibres 2.9 Synthetic fibres 2.9.1 General 2.9.2 Polyamide 2.9.3 Aminocarboxylic acid-based PAs 2.9.4 Diamine–dicarboxylic acid-based PAs 2.9.5 PES fibres 2.9.6 Polylactic acid and polyhydroxybutyrate 2.9.7 Polyurethanes/elastomer fibres 2.9.8 Polyolefin fibres, PE and PP 2.9.9 Polyacrylonitrile fibres 2.9.10 High-performance fibres References Take home messages Quiz Exercises Solutions 3. Structure of textile fibres 3.1 General aspects 3.2 Crystallinity versus amorphous regions 3.3 Constitution of a polymer 3.4 High-performance fibres 3.5 Molecular weight distribution 3.6 Consequences of polydispersity 3.7 Configuration 3.8 Conformation 3.8.1 Conformational statistics 3.9 Polymer assemblies 3.10 The thermodynamic non-equilibrium state of polymers 3.11 Models of fibre structure 3.12 Consequences of polymer order in a fibre 3.12.1 Moisture/adsorption/swelling References Take home messages Quiz Exercises Solutions List of abbreviations/symbols 4. Basic interactions between fibre polymers and sorptives 4.1 General 4.2 Dipoles 4.3 Polarisability 4.4 Molecular interactions 4.4.1 Ion–ion interactions 4.4.2 Van der Waals forces 4.4.3 Hydrogen bonds 4.4.4 Hydrophobic interactions 4.4.5 π-electron interactions 4.5 The polymer–solvent boundary layer 4.6 Zeta potential 4.7 Donnan equilibrium References Take home messages Quiz Exercises Solutions 5. Thermodynamics and kinetics in fibre chemistry 5.1 Moisture sorption 5.2 Moisture sorption isotherms 5.2.1 Water activity 5.3 Sorption kinetics for adsorption from the gas phase 5.4 Sorption from the liquid phase 5.4.1 General considerations 5.4.2 The Nernst isotherm 5.4.3 The Freundlich isotherm 5.4.4 Langmuir adsorption isotherm 5.4.5 Special aspects of sorption isotherms References Take home messages Exercises Solutions List of abbreviations/symbols 6. Kinetics of textile chemical processes 6.1 Elementary steps in polyester dyeing 6.2 Step A – dissolution of dispersed dye 6.3 Infinite and finite dyeing kinetics 6.4 Step B – hydraulic transport in the dyebath 6.5 Step C – diffusion through the boundary layer of the fibre 6.6 Step D – dyestuff sorption in the fibre 6.7 Levelling 6.8 Follow-up reactions – kinetics in reactive dyeing 6.9 Preceding and following reactions – vat dyeing 6.10 Aggregation References Take home messages Quiz Exercises Solutions 7. Basics of colour development 7.1 The phenomenon of colour – how to approach? 7.2 Physical aspects of colour development 7.3 Additive and subtractive colour 7.4 Development of colour 7.5 Colour variations independent of molecular structure 7.6 Fluorescence and phosphorescence 7.7 Textile chemical relevance References Take home messages: References Quiz Exercises 8. General principles of dyes 8.1 The molecular structure of dyes 8.2 The azo chromophore 8.2.1 Mono-, di- and polyazo dyes 8.2.2 The diazotisation 8.2.3 The coupling component 8.3 Anthraquinone chromophores 8.4 Indigoid chromophores 8.5 Cationic dyes 8.6 Polymethine dyes 8.7 Phthalocyanine dyes – Aza[18]annulenes 8.8 Sulphur-based chromophores 8.9 Metal complexes 8.10 Formazan dyes 8.11 Fluorescent brighteners/fluorescent whitening agents 8.12 Photodegradation of dyes 8.13 Photodegradation of dye classes References Take home messages References Quiz Exercises Solutions List of abbreviations/symbols 9. Colour measurement 9.1 The perception of colour 9.2 The standard observer 9.3 Colour specification through the CIELAB system 9.4 Metamerism 9.5 Tristimulus values 9.6 Colour coordinates 9.7 Measurement of reflectance curves 9.8 Determination of whiteness, yellowness 9.9 Colour strength – the Kubelka–Munk function 9.10 Prediction of dyeing recipes 9.11 Gloss/lustre References Take home messages Exercises Solutions List of abbreviations/symbols 10. Dye chemistry 10.1 Overview 10.2 Disperse dyes 10.2.1 Dyeing processes with disperse dyes 10.2.2 Reductive cleaning 10.3 Direct dyes 10.4 Reactive dyes 10.4.1 Chemistry of reactive dyes 10.4.2 Important dyeing techniques 10.5 Vat dyes 10.5.1 Oxidation/soaping 10.6 Indigo 10.6.1 Synthesis of indigo 10.6.2 Application of indigo 10.6.3 Chemistry of indigo reduction 10.6.4 Garment wash – fading 10.7 Sulphur dyes 10.8 Acid dyes and metal complex dyes 10.9 Naphthol dyes 10.10 Cationic dyes/basic dyes 10.11 Natural colourants 10.11.1 General aspects 10.11.2 Major classes of natural colourants 10.11.3 Tannin-based dyes 10.12 Pigment dyes 10.13 Textile printing 10.13.1 General aspects of printing 10.13.2 Screen printing 10.13.3 Ink-jet printing 10.13.4 Special printing techniques References Take home messages Quiz Exercises Solutions 11. Pre-treatment 11.1 Sizing 11.2 Desizing 11.3 Alkaline extraction 11.4 Prewashing of textiles from synthetic fibres 11.5 Setting of synthetic fibres 11.6 Alkalisation (causticising, mercerisation) 11.7 Alkalisation of polyester fibres 11.8 Bleaching 11.8.1 General aspects 11.8.2 Peroxide compounds 11.8.3 Halogen-based oxidants 11.9 Singeing 11.10 Carbonisation 11.11 Reductive bleach 11.12 Wool anti-felt treatment 11.13 Cationisation 11.14 Degumming of silk 11.15 Production of microfibres References Take home messages Quiz Exercises Solutions List of abbreviations/symbols 12. Finishing 12.1 General aspects 12.2 Easy-care/durable press finishing 12.3 Softening 12.4 Hand building finishes 12.5 Water-repellent finishes 12.6 Flame retardant finishes 12.7 Antistatic finishes 12.8 Improvement of colour fastness 12.9 Improving the light fastness 12.10 UV protection 12.11 Antimicrobial finishing 12.12 Insect-resistant finishes – Mite protection 12.13 Enzymatic finishing – biofinishing 12.14 Denim finishing 12.15 Finishes that influence thermal regulation 12.16 Sorption of fragrances and functional substances 12.17 Plasma chemistry in textile treatment/modification 12.17.1 Introduction 12.17.2 Effect of plasma treatment on fibre and textile surfaces 12.17.3 Free radical formation 12.17.4 Etching/cleaning 12.17.5 Surface activation and functionalisation 12.17.6 Surface coating by plasma-induced polymerisation 12.17.7 Industrial plasma technologies and applications on textiles References Take home messages Quiz Exercises Solutions 13. Technical approaches in dyestuff/chemical application 13.1 General aspects 13.2 Batchwise operation 13.3 Yarn dyeing apparatus 13.4 Overflow dyeing machines/jet dyeing machines 13.5 Continuous pretreatment 13.6 Continuous dyeing processes – cold-pad-batch dyeing 13.7 Continuous dyeing processes – pad-dry/pad steam plants 13.8 Drying, fixation and finishing 13.9 Minimum pick-up applications 13.10 Coating and laminating References Take home messages Quiz Exercises List of abbreviations/symbols 14. Surfactants, detergents and laundry 14.1 Surfactants 14.2 Classification of surfactants 14.3 Solubility of surfactants 14.4 Contact angle 14.5 Cloud point 14.6 Surfactant adhesion at interfaces 14.7 The role of multivalent ions 14.8 Detergent ingredients 14.9 Washing and environment References Take home messages Quiz Exercises Solutions List of abbreviations/symbols 15. Environmental aspects of textiles 15.1 Waste water 15.2 General wastewater treatment 15.3 Processing steps and relevant aspects of wastewater treatment 15.3.1 General 15.3.2 Wool processing 15.3.3 Sizing/desizing 15.3.4 Scouring, bleaching, pre-washing 15.3.5 Mercerisation/causticising 15.3.6 Dyeing processes 15.3.7 Printing 15.3.8 Finishing 15.4 End-of-pipe technologies 15.4.1 Neutralisation 15.4.2 Filtration techniques 15.4.3 Flocculation and sedimentation 15.4.4 Oxidative processes 15.4.5 Adsorption 15.4.6 Biological (aerobic, anaerobic) treatment 15.5 Recycling and disposal 15.6 Approaches and challenges References Take home messages Quiz Exercises Solutions Index