ENGLISH

Wrapped in Beauty: The Koelz Collection of Kashmiri Shawls

Book information

Publisher
University of Michigan Museum of Anthropological Archaeology
Year
2005
ISBN
9781949098792
Language
english
Format
PDF
Filesize
18 MB (19364903 bytes)
Series
Anthropological Papers Series
Pages
\259
Time added
2023-05-26 04:22:48

Description

This richly illustrated volume examines the remarkable Kashmiri shawls of the Walter Koelz Collection of the University of Michigan Museum of Anthropological Archaeology. Part I presents the history, production, forms, and ornamentation of Kashmiri shawls, focusing on the impact of social contexts and the advent of the Jacquard loom on shawl development. Part II is a detailed descriptive catalogue of the shawls in the Koelz Collection. An accompanying CD-ROM includes color illustrations of the shawls in the collection as well as a transcribed manuscript by Koelz. Contents List of Tables and Illustrations in Part I Preface Acknowledgments Part I: Kashmir Shawls in Context Chapter 1. Introduction About the Koelz Collection The Organization of this Work Chapter 2. Walter N. Koelz and His Collections, by Carla M. Sinopoli A Biographical Sketch The UMMA Koelz Collection Chapter 3. "Turbans" (Patkas) Chapter 4. Kashmir and Persian Shawls in Their Historical Context The Historical Background of the Kashmir Shawl Early Development: Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries Nineteenth-Century Production The Koelz Collection in its Broader Contexts Parts of a Shawl Size and Shape Weight Shawl Materials Understanding Weave Producers and Consumers The Production Process The Loom The Talim Working Conditions Expanding Demand and its Impact on Production Chapter 5. Dissecting the Kashmir Shawl, Part 1: Piecework and Structural Proportions Piecework as a Time-Saving Device The Needlework of Piecing Piecework Structures Rectilinear Piecing in Long Shawls Piecing in Square Shawls: Moon to Quatrefoil Format A Multi-Moon Design Layout A Quatrefoil Square Shawl Other Variants on the Moon Shawl The Elaboration of Fringe Gates Changing Structures: Increased Figure Area The Influence of the Jacquard Loom on Shawl Design Chapter 6. Dissecting the Kashmir Shawl, Part 2: Decorative Motifs The Boteh Motif Symbolism of the Boteh: A Ubiquitous Natural Shape Radial Flower Motif Shared Motifs Beading Red-Flower-Green-Leaf Bel Wishbone-Rose Border Four-Fragrant-Flower Repeat References Cited Glossary Part II: Catalogue Turbans/Patkas Long Shawls Long Shawls Woven Whole Yardage Long Shawls Field Gallery Long Shawls Block Pieced Long Shawls Reworked Long Shawls Strata-Field Long Shawls Square Shawls Moon Shawls Woven Whole Moon Shawls Woven Whole except for Attached Hashias Moon Shawls Pieced across the Middle Square Shawls with Broad Field Gallery Piecework Square Shawls Strata-Field Square Shawls Pieced Conglomerate Square Shawls Square Machine-Woven False Kashmir Shawl

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