Rethinking Fashion Globalization

Description

Rethinking Fashion Globalization is a timely call to rewrite the fashion system and push back against Eurocentric dominance within fashion histories by presenting new models, approaches and understandings of fashion from critical thinkers at the forefront of decolonial fashion discourse. This edited collection draws together original, diverse, and richly reflective critiques of the fashion system from both established and emerging fashion scholars, researchers and creative practitioners. Chapters straddle current calls for decolonization and inclusion, as well as reflections on de-westernization, post-colonialism, sustainability, transnationalism, national identities, social activism, global fashion narratives, diversity, and more. The volume is divided into three key themes, ‘Disruptions in Time and Space’, ‘Nationalism and Transnationalism’ and ‘Global Design Practices’. These themes re-map fashion’s origins, practices and futures, to present alternatives for reclaiming and rethinking fashion globalization in the 21st century. Cover page Halftitle page Copyright page Title page CONTENTS ILLUSTRATIONS NOTES ON CONTRIBUTORS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS FOREWORD CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION Rethinking Fashion Studies Developing a Decolonial Framework for Rethinking Notes SECTION I DISRUPTIONS IN TIME AND SPACE INTRODUCTION TO SECTION I CHAPTER 2 KIMONO MIGRATING ACROSS BORDERS: WASO CULTURE OUTSIDE OF JAPAN1 Introduction Analysis of Waso Outside of Japan Conclusion Notes CHAPTER 3 GLOBAL CONNECTIONS AND FASHION HISTORIES: EAST ASIAN EMBROIDERED GARMENTS1 Introduction Creating the Chinese/Spanish Shawl Fashion, Cultures and Categorization Fashion and Military Expansionism Souvenir to Global Fashion Conclusion Notes CHAPTER 4 AFRO-SURINAMESE KOTOMISI: FASHION AND THE ETHNOGRAPHY MUSEUM Introduction Fashion and the Ethnographic Museum The Nationaal Museum van Wereldculturen and Koto The Creation of Koto Complicating ‘Slave Cloth’ Shape, Silhouette and Status Creolizing Fashions The Koto Today Conclusion Notes CHAPTER 5 COATS AND TROUSERS: REDRAWING THE MAP TO RESCRIPT THE NARRATIVE Introduction Evidence from Persia and Europe Asian Contexts: Tarim Basin Asian Contexts: East of the Tarim Basin Conclusion Notes SECTION II NATIONALISM, TRANSNATIONALISM AND FASHION INTRODUCTION TO SECTION II CHAPTER 6 #OWNYOURCULTURE: DECOLONIZING FASHION THROUGH TRADITIONAL JEWELLERY Introduction Implementation and Adaptation OwnYourCulture and Decolonizing Kenyan Fashion Efforts Conclusion Notes CHAPTER 7 KAWAII FASHION DISCOURSE IN THE 21ST CENTURY: TRANSNATIONALIZING ACTORS Introduction Kawaii Fashion Transnationalizing in France Discourse on Constructing and Transmitting Fashion as Representation in Transnational Ages 1. First Actor: Kawaii Fashion Wearers 2. Kawaii/Kawai: Defi nition of Kawaii Fashion by Wearers Redefined in the French Mass Media and Books 3. Auto-Appropriation or Re-Acculturation? Kawaii Fashion Reconstituted and Re-Distributed Abroad by the Japanese Government 4. Appropriation vs Inspiration, or Strategy vs Tactics? Representation of Kawaii by the French, Japanese and London’s Fashion Designers Conclusion Notes CHAPTER 8 ERASURE, FORGETTING AND THE PRACTICE OF MEMORY: DECOLONIZING FASHION IN AOTEAROA NEW ZEALAND Introduction Fashion Memory Colonial Disavowal Cultural Cringe Contemporary Fashion in Aotearoa New Zealand Conclusion Notes CHAPTER 9 WEARING ETHNICITY: NYONYA FASHION IN EARLY 20TH CENTURY SINGAPORE1 Introduction Changing Wardrobe: Switching Ethnicity Ascendency of Chinese Fashion Straits-Chinese Reform: Re-Sinicization of Nyonyas Experimenting with Chinese Fashion Conclusion Notes SECTION III GLOBAL DESIGN PRACTICES INTRODUCTION TO SECTION III CHAPTER 10 CREATIVE COLLABORATIONS BETWEEN CONSUMERS AND FASHION DESIGNERS: THE ROLE OF FASHION POSTERS IN URBAN AND RURAL GHANA Introduction Vignette 1: Hamidu Tenni and Pat Glauh-Yeh Vignette 2: Dzifa Edith Kuleke Vignette 3: Daniel Kwesi Otabil Vignette 4: Wofa Kurabi Overview of Ghana’s Fashion Scenes Historical Ghanaian Fashions Understanding Poster Cultures Interviewing Fashion Creators Creative Encounters Conclusion Notes CHAPTER 11 STATE OF FASHION: SEARCHING FOR THE NEW LUXURY Introduction Radicant Identities Imagination in the Post Nation-State The Failure of the Current Fashion System The Need to Re-Define Fashion and Luxury Subtheme 1: New Imaginations Subtheme 2: The Product and the Maker in the Spotlight Subtheme 3: New Business Models Subtheme 4: Fashion Design for a Better World Subtheme 5: Interdisciplinarity Conclusion Notes CHAPTER 12 MAKING THE ORDINARY FASHIONABLE: NEW SARTORIAL LANGUAGES FROM RUSSIA AND CHINA Introduction Considering Ma Ke and Gosha Rubchinskiy The Ordinary and the Everyday Transformations Fashion as Expanded Practice/s Crossing Boundaries Conclusion Notes CHAPTER 13 BODY MAPPING: CROSS-CULTURAL INFLUENCES IN THE STUDIO Introduction Project 1: Planet Organic Project 2: Map Manipulation Project 3: Memento Re-Making History Project 4: Multiples in Nature Project 5: Final Major Project Conclusion Notes AFTERWORD INDEX