Surf science : an introduction to waves for surfing
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Title Page About the Book About the Author Dedication Contents Preface 1 Introduction 2 Large-scale Air Movements 3 Formation of a Depression 4 Growth of Waves on the Ocean 5 Propagation of Free-travelling Swell 6 Waves in Shallow Water 7 Wave-breaking 8 The Temperature of the Water 9 Local Winds on the Coast 10 The Tides 11 Rips 12 Forecasting 1: Basics 13 Forecasting 2: Inside the Black Box 14 Forecasting 3: Surfing in the Storm Further Reading Glossary Acknowledgements Credits Copyright
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