Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing

Description

A thousand years after Hawaiians first paddled long wooden boards into the ocean, modern surfers have continued this practice, which has recently been transformed into a global industry. Pacific Passages brings together four centuries of writing about surfing, the most comprehensive collection of Polynesian and Western perspectives on the history and culture of a sport currently enjoyed by millions of people around the world. The stories begin with Hawaiian legends and chants and are followed by the journals of explorers; the travel narratives of missionaries and luminaries such as Herman Melville, Mark Twain, and Jack London; and the contemporary observations of Tom Wolfe, William Finnegan, Susan Orlean, and Bob Shacochis. Readers follow the historical transformation of surfing's image through the centuries: from Polynesian myths of love to Western accounts of horror and exoticism in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, to modern representations of surfing as a character-building activity in pre-World-War II California and the quintessential expression of disaffected youth. They explore the sport's most recent trends by writers and cultural critics, whose insights into technology, competition, gender, heritage, and globalism reveal how surfing impacts some of today's most pressing social concerns. Aided by informative introductions, the writings in Pacific Passages provide insight into the values and ideals of Polynesian and Western cultures, revealing how each has altered and been altered by surfing--and how the sport itself has shown an amazing ability throughout the centuries to survive, adapt, and prosper. Contents......Page 8 Acknowledgments......Page 12 Introduction......Page 14 Part I. Surfriding in Polynesian Culture......Page 28 1. Samuel Mânaiakalani Kamakau,2. “Kelea-nui-noho-‘ana-‘api‘api”......Page 32 2. King David Kalâkaua and Roland M. Daggett,2. “The Story of Laie-i-ka-wai”......Page 36 3. William Westervelt, “A Surfing Legend”......Page 39 4. William Westervelt, “A Shark Punished at Waikiki”......Page 42 5. Clarice B. Taylor, “Faithless Lover Is Turned to Stone”......Page 45 6. Mary Kawena Pukui and Alfons L. Korn,76. “Name Chant for Naihe”......Page 47 7. Nona Beamer, “‘Auhea ‘O Ka Lani76. (Where is the Royal Chief?)”......Page 55 8. Rerioterai Tava and Moses K. Keale Sr.,26. “Ka Hui Nalu Mele: The Surf Club Song”......Page 57 9. Mary Kawena Pukui, Hawaiian Proverbs &26. Poetical Sayings......Page 60 Part II. Explorers, Missionaries, and Travelers (1769­-1896)......Page 62 10. John Papa ‘Αî, “Activities in Court Circles,” from10. Fragments of Hawaiian History: Kuokoa......Page 68 Explorers 61......Page 74 11. Sir Joseph Banks, An Account of the Voyages Undertaken11. by the Order of His Present Majesty for Making Discoveries11. in the Southern Hemisphere......Page 76 12. William Anderson, A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean......Page 78 13. Charles Clerke, The Journals of Captain James Cook14. on his Voyages of Discovery......Page 80 14. William Ellis, An Authentic Narrative of a Voyage14. Performed by Captain Cook and Captain Clerke in His14. Majesty’s Ships Resolution and Discovery......Page 82 15. David Samwell, The Journals of Captain James Cook on his14. Voyages of Discovery......Page 83 16. George Gilbert, Captain Cook’s Final Voyage: The Journal14. of Midshipman George Gilbert......Page 85 17. James King, The Journals of Captain James Cook on14. his Voyages of Discovery......Page 86 18. John Douglas, ed., A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean......Page 88 19. William Bligh, The Log of the Bounty......Page 90 20. James Morrison, The Journal of James Morrison,14. Boatswain’s Mate of the Bounty......Page 91 21. Peter Puget, A Voyage of Discovery to the Northern Pacific14. Ocean and Round the World, 1791–1795......Page 93 Missionaries 81......Page 94 22. Hiram Bingham, “Mission at the Sandwich Islands”......Page 96 23. William Ellis, Narrative of a Tour through Hawaii......Page 99 24. William Ellis, Polynesian Researches......Page 103 25. W. S. W. Ruschenberger, Narrative of a14. Voyage Round the World......Page 107 26. Charles Wilkes, Narrative of the United States14. Exploring Expedition......Page 109 27. Hiram Bingham, A Residence of Twenty-one Years in14. the Sandwich Islands......Page 111 Travelers 99......Page 112 28. Herman Melville, Mardi and a Voyage Thither......Page 114 29. Henry T. Cheever, Life in the Sandwich Islands......Page 117 30. Chester S. Lyman, Around the Horn to the Sandwich Islands14. and California, 1845–1850......Page 119 31. Samuel S. Hill, Travels in the Sandwich and Society Islands......Page 121 32. Sophia Cracroft, The Victorian Visitors......Page 125 33. J. Waiamau, “Ancient Sports of Hawaii: Such as Surfing,34. Jumping, Sledding, Betting and Boxing”......Page 128 34. Mark Twain, Roughing It......Page 130 35. Abraham Fornander, Honolulu Directory and Historical Sketch34. of the Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands......Page 131 36. Isabella Bird, The Hawaiian Archipelago: Six Months among34. the Palm Groves, Coral Reefs and Volcanoes of the34. Sandwich Islands......Page 133 37. Henry Carrington Bolton, “Some Hawaiian Pastimes”......Page 136 38. Anonymous, “Hawaiian Surf Riding”......Page 138 Part III. Surfriding Revival (1907–1954) 133......Page 146 39. Jack London, “Riding The South Seas Surf”......Page 150 40. Alexander Hume Ford, “Aquatic Sports”......Page 160 41. M. Leola Crawford, Seven Weeks in Hawaii......Page 164 42. George Freeth, Article from The Evening Herald......Page 166 43. Tom Blake, Hawaiian Surfboard......Page 168 44. C. P. L. Nicholls, “Lessons in Surfing for Everyman”......Page 174 45. Thomas C. Zahn, “Surf boarding from Molokai to Waikiki”......Page 177 Part IV. Youth Culture (1957–1979)......Page 184 46. Frederick Kohner, Gidget......Page 188 47. Tom Wolfe, “The Pump House Gang Meets the Black57. Panthers—or Silver Threads among the Gold in Surf City”......Page 193 48. John Witzig, “We’re Tops Now”......Page 204 49. Mickey Dora, “Mickey on Malibu”......Page 209 50. Kevin Naughton, Craig Peterson, and Greg Carpenter,48. “Centroamerica”......Page 214 51. Kimo Hollinger, “An Alternate Viewpoint”......Page 221 52. Jack McCoy, “We’re Number One—Interview: Ian Cairns”......Page 226 53. C. R. Stecyk III, Articles from Skateboarder Magazine......Page 231 54. Erik Aeder, “Indonesia: Just Another Paradise”......Page 234 Part V. Surfing Today 225......Page 238 55. Bruce Jenkins, “Laird Hamilton: 20th Century Man”......Page 242 56. Steve Pezman, “The Cat’s Ninth Life . . . On Visiting57. Miki Dora Near the End”......Page 253 57. Susan Orlean, “The Maui Surfer Girls”......Page 260 58. Steve Barilotti, “Lost Horizons: Surf Colonialism in57. the 21st Century”......Page 271 59. Matt Warshaw, “Winterland: Fred Van Dyke, and the Blissful,57. Stressful, Unpredictable Life of the Older Surfer”......Page 282 Part VI. What Is Surfing?......Page 294 60. William Finnegan, “Playing Doc’s Games—I”......Page 298 61. Thomas Farber, On Water......Page 302 62. Daniel Duane, Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the57. California Coast......Page 303 63. Mark Jarman, “Ground Swell”......Page 305 64. Richard Katrovas, “The Surfer”......Page 307 65. Richard Robbins, “Surfing Accident at Trestles Beach”......Page 309 66. Allan C. Weisbecker, In Search of Captain Zero......Page 311 67. Bob Shacochis, “Return of the Prodigal Surfer”......Page 316 Permissions......Page 320 Notes......Page 324 Bibliography......Page 332