Formulations: In Cosmetic and Personal Care

Description

Formulations starts with a general introduction, explaining interaction forces between particles and droplets, self-assembly systems, polymeric surfactants and nanoemulsions. The second part covers the industrial examples ranging from foams, soaps over to hair care, sunscreen and make-up products. Combines information needed by formulation chemists as well as researchers in the cosmetic industry due the increasing number of products. Regulation, main characteristics, properties and ingredients of formulations are presented at both the fundamental and practical levels Interdisciplinary science involving chemistry, biology, formulation science, pharmacology, marketing Preface Contents 1 General introduction 2 Surfactants used in cosmetic and personal care formulations, their properties and surfactant–polymer interaction 2.1 Surfactant classes 2.1.1 Anionic surfactants 2.1.2 Cationic surfactants 2.1.3 Amphoteric (zwitterionic) surfactants 2.1.4 Nonionic surfactants 2.1.5 Surfactants derived from mono- and polysaccharides 2.1.6 Naturally occurring surfactants 2.1.7 Polymeric (macromolecular) surfactants 2.1.8 Silicone surfactants 2.2 Physical properties of surfactant solutions and the process of micellization 2.2.1 Thermodynamics of micellization 2.3 Micellization in surfactant mixtures (mixed micelles) 2.4 Surfactant–polymer interaction 2.4.1 Factors influencing the association between surfactant and polymer 2.4.2 Interaction models 2.4.3 Driving force for surfactant/polymer interaction 2.4.4 Structure of surfactant/polymer complexes 2.4.5 Surfactant/hydrophobically modified polymer interaction 2.4.6 Interaction between surfactants and polymers with opposite charge (surfactant/polyelectrolyte interaction) 3 Polymeric surfactants in cosmetic formulations 3.1 Introduction 3.2 General classification of polymeric surfactants 3.3 Polymeric surfactant adsorption and conformation 3.3.1 Measurement of the adsorption isotherm 3.3.2 Measurement of the fraction of segments p 3.3.3 Determination of the segment density distribution ?(z) and adsorbed layer thickness dh 3.4 Examples of the adsorption results of nonionic polymeric surfactant 3.4.1 Adsorption isotherms 3.4.2 Adsorbed layer thickness results 3.5 Kinetics of polymer adsorption 3.6 Emulsions stabilized by polymeric surfactants 4 Self-assembly structures in cosmetic formulations 4.1 Introduction 4.2 Self-assembly structures 4.3 Structure of liquid crystalline phases 4.3.1 Hexagonal phase 4.3.2 Micellar cubic phase 4.3.3 Lamellar phase 4.3.4 Discontinuous cubic phases 4.3.5 Reversed structures 4.4 Driving force for liquid crystalline phase formation 4.5 Identification of the liquid crystalline phases and investigation of their structure 4.6 Formulation of liquid crystalline phases 4.6.1 Oleosomes 4.6.2 Hydrosomes 5 Interaction forces between particles or droplets in cosmetic formulations and their combination 5.1 Van der Waals attraction 5.2 Electrostatic repulsion 5.3 Flocculation of electrostatically stabilized dispersions 5.4 Criteria for stabilization of dispersions with double layer interaction 5.5 Steric repulsion 5.5.1 Mixing interaction Gmix 5.5.2 Elastic interaction Gel 5.5.3 Total energy of interaction 5.5.4 Criteria for effective steric stabilization 5.5.5 Flocculation of sterically stabilized dispersions 6 Formulation of cosmetic emulsions 6.1 Introduction 6.2 Thermodynamics of emulsion formation 6.3 Emulsion breakdown processes and their prevention 6.3.1 Creaming and sedimentation 6.3.2 Flocculation 6.3.3 Ostwald ripening (disproportionation) 6.3.4 Coalescence 6.3.5 Phase Inversion 6.4 Selection of emulsifiers 6.4.1 The Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) concept 6.4.2 The Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT) concept 6.4.3 The Cohesive Energy Ratio (CER) concept 6.4.4 The Critical Packing Parameter (CPP) for emulsion selection 6.5 Manufacture of cosmetic emulsions 6.5.1 Mechanism of emulsification 6.5.2 Methods of emulsification 6.6 Rheological properties of cosmetic emulsions 7 Formulation of nanoemulsions in cosmetics 7.1 Introduction 7.2 Preparation of nanoemulsion by the use of high pressure homogenizers 7.3 Low-energy methods for preparation of nanoemulsions 7.3.1 Phase Inversion Composition (PIC) principle 7.3.2 Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT) principle 7.3.3 Preparation of nanoemulsions by dilution of microemulsions 7.4 Practical examples of nanoemulsions 7.5 Nanoemulsions based on polymeric surfactants 8 Formulation of multiple emulsions in cosmetics 8.1 Introduction 8.2 Types of multiple emulsions 8.3 Breakdown processes of multiple emulsions 8.4 Preparation of multiple emulsions 8.5 Characterization of multiple emulsions 8.5.1 Droplet size analysis 8.5.2 Dialysis 8.5.3 Rheological techniques 8.6 Summary of the factors affecting stability of multiple emulsions and criteria for their stabilization 9 Liposomes and vesicles in cosmetic formulations 9.1 Introduction 9.2 Nomenclature of liposomes and their classification 9.3 Driving force for formation of vesicles 10 Formulation of shampoos 10.1 Introduction 10.2 Surfactants for use in shampoo formulations 10.2.1 Anionic surfactants 10.2.2 Amphoteric surfactants 10.2.3 Nonionic surfactants 10.3 Properties of a shampoo 10.4 Components of a shampoo 10.4.1 Cleansing agents 10.4.2 Foam boosters 10.4.3 Thickening agents 10.4.4 Preservatives 10.4.5 Miscellaneous additives 10.5 Role of the components 10.5.1 Behaviour of mixed surfactant systems 10.5.2 Cleansing function 10.5.3 Foam boosters 10.5.4 Thickeners and rheology modifiers 10.5.5 Silicone oil emulsions in shampoos 10.6 Use of associative thickeners as rheology modifiers in shampoos 11 Formulation of hair conditioners in shampoos 11.1 Introduction 11.2 Morphology of hair 11.3 Surface properties of hair 11.3.1 Wettability investigations 11.3.2 Electrokinetic studies 11.4 Role of surfactants and polymers in hair conditioners 12 Formulation of sunscreens for UV protection 12.1 Introduction 12.2 Mechanism of absorbance and scattering by TiO2 and ZnO 12.3 Preparation of well-dispersed particles 12.4 Experimental results for sterically stabilized TiO2 dispersions in nonaqueous media 12.5 Competitive interactions in sunscreen formulations 13 Formulation of colour cosmetics 13.1 Introduction 13.2 Fundamental principles for preparation of a stable colour cosmetic dispersion 13.2.1 Powder wetting 13.2.2 Powder dispersion and milling (comminution) 13.2.3 Stabilization of the dispersion against aggregation 13.3 Classes of dispersing agents 13.4 Assessment of dispersants 13.4.1 Adsorption isotherms 13.4.2 Measurement of dispersion and particle size distribution 13.4.3 Rheological measurements 13.5 Application of the above fundamental principles to colour cosmetics 13.6 Principles of preparation of colour cosmetics 13.7 Competitive interactions in colour cosmetic formulations 14 Industrial examples of cosmetic and personal care formulations 14.1 Shaving formulations 14.2 Bar soaps 14.3 Liquid hand soaps 14.4 Bath oils 14.5 Foam (or bubble) baths 14.6 After bath preparations 14.7 Skincare products 14.8 Haircare formulations 14.9 Sunscreens 14.10 Make-up products Index