Fashion Heritage: Narrative and Knowledge Creation

Description

This edited volume explores how fashion brands deal with legacy by looking at the preservation of heritage and knowledge and how this builds a bridge to the future. Bringing together different reflections from the world of fashion, from gloves to virtual jewels, from luxury brand’s digital narratives to historical contexts, each chapter offers a narrative that is contemporary, yet linked to historical contexts. With these narratives, the book reveals how innovation builds on heritage, and how locally rooted traditional techniques connect to contemporary global production. It illustrates how ancestral processes renew, encouraging us to produce and consume more responsibly. Split into three parts, the book firstly covers narrative and knowledge in different contexts before delving in to narrative, brand building and creativity with case studies. The final section centres on digital narratives with new consumers. Ultimately, this book demonstrates that multidisciplinary knowledge of the past is essential to the understanding of the contemporary. Acknowledgments Contents Notes on Contributors List of Figures List of Tables 1: Introduction: Telling the Story of Fashion Heritage Material and Immaterial Narratives Fashion Heritage: A Recent History The Origins of Considering Heritage in Fashion The Ambiguous Heritage-Making of Fashion A Narrative Shift in Fashion Objects The Structure of Volume: Making the Past Ever Present References Part I: Fashion Legacy, Narratives, and Knowledge 2: Fashion Storytelling Through Dress and Lego Mini-Figures: Mary Queen of Scots Introduction The Scene Storyworld and Storytelling Lego as Playful Story Prop Story Prop as Fashionable “Aesthetic Third” to Symbolise Experience Conclusion References 3: 1980–2020: Fashion Curating and Cultural Policy in Italy Introduction 1980: An Exhibition to Define a Museum. 1922–1943: Vent’anni di moda italiana at the Poldi Pezzoli 2020: The Exhibition Memos: On Fashion in This Millennium Conclusions: Forty Years of Fashion Curating References 4: Back to the Future of Fashion Past: Re-fashioning Future Garment Making Introduction Analysis of Material Culture The Methodology Stage 1: Description Stage 2: Deduction Stage 3: Speculation Notes on Applying the Analysis The Case Studies Case Study 1 Mrs Guiney’s Gown Garment Analysis Hypothesis Design and Construct: The Practice-Led Stage of Research Contemporary Explorations: Extracted Techniques for Contemporary Garments 1 and 2 (CG1 and CG2) Colour Decisions Construction of Garments The Make-Do and Mend Dress: Case Study 2 Constructing the Jacket Re-fashioning My Grandmother’s Dress Evaluating the Methodology and Design Process Outline of the Workshops Outcomes MA Fashion Futures MA Pattern Cutting and Garment Technology Conclusion References 5: Crafting Communities: A Haven for Escapism and Wellbeing Introduction Background Context Crafting Theory of Globalised Production Social Brand Engagement Theory Methodology: A Social Constructivist Exploration of Community Formation Findings Community Constructs Commutuality Within a Crafting Community Creativity and Self-Care Wider Society Relevance for Theory and Practice References Part II: Fashion Narratives, Brands, and Creativity 6: The Heritage-Making of Fashion Brands 7: The History of the Luxury Glove: Tangible and Intangible Cultural Fashion Heritage from the Nineteenth Century to the Twenty-First Century Introduction The Popularisation of the Glove Through History Linked to Clothing Fashion (Nineteenth Century, First Half of the Twentieth Century) The Glove, an Indispensable Product in Nineteenth-Century High Society A Product That Is Becoming More Popular From Production to Fashion: A Variety of Models (1870s–1940s) Behind the Scenes of Fashion: The Environmental Impact of Production An Activity That Generates Environmental Pollution Thinking About a more Sustainable Leather Industry from the End of the Twentieth Century Onwards Acting for a More Sustainable Industry in the Twenty-First Century Gloves: Between Art Object, Heritage and the Fashion of Tomorrow A Product Neglected in Post-war Society The Artistic Dimension of Gloves A Cultural Asset That Contributes to the Renewal of Fashion Conclusion References Printed Sources 8: Heritage and Contemporary Children’s Fashion: Case Study: The Repositioning of the Socio-cultural Values of the Brand Jacadi Paris (2006–2010) Introduction Nostalgia and Transmission in Contemporary Children’s Fashion Heritage Brands: A Trend or a Characteristic of the Childrenswear Market? Tradition, Transmission and Narration: The Core Features of a Heritage Brand Towards a Pretend Heritage: Methodology The Pretend Story: Which Story to Tell? Questionnaire de Proust: Drawing the Portrait of the Brand Object-Based Research: From the Archives to the Shop: ‘les Emblématiques’ Visual Analysis Telling the Story: The Role of the Visual Communication Spreading the Word: Training of the Collaborators of the Brand Conclusion: A Story to Be Continued … References Websites 9: The Fourth Space: Fashion Branding and Café-Restaurant Projects Introduction Fashion at the Top Table Fashion and Food Consuming Space Beyond the Third Space Instagram and Table Manners Theorizing the Fourth Space Conclusion: Fashion Beyond Clothing References Part III: Digital Narratives and New Consumers 10: Investigating the Use of Digital Technology in Jewellery Design: A Thematic Analysis Introduction Methodology Analysis Phase 1: Become Familiar with the Data Phase 2: Generating Initial Codes Phase 3: Search for Themes Phase 4: Reviewing Themes Phase 5: Define Themes Conclusion References 11: Fashion as Leisure: Experience and Entertainment Through Brands’ Digital Narratives Introduction Fashion as Seen Behind the Scenes: Unveiling the Performance Fashion and Noble Culture: A Discrete Consumption of Leisure Fashion and Popular Culture: The Illusion of a Democratization of Luxurious Brands Conclusion References Videos and Podcasts Consulted 12: Second-Hand History and Algorithms: The Case of Sellpy Introduction From Sellers to Buyers. The Origin of the Second-Hand Market and Its Development Online Sustainability and the Circular Economy IT: Algorithms, Machine Learning, Influencers When Sustainability Meets IT: Sellpy and the Marketing of Reselling Conclusion References 13: Conclusion Fashion Narratives in the Covid-19 Context Preserving World Heritage Through a Sustainable Economy References Index