ENGLISH

Fashioning the Afropolis: Histories, Materialities and Aesthetic Practices

By Kerstin Pinther; Kristin Kastner; Basile Ndjio (editors)

Book information

Publisher
Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Year
2022
ISBN
9781350179523, 9781350179554, 9781350179530
Language
english
Format
PDF
Filesize
52 MB (54386170 bytes)
Pages
\241
Time added
2023-05-22 05:52:33

Description

With a focus on sub-Saharan Africa, Fashioning the Afropolis provides a range of innovative perspectives on global fashion, design, dress, photography, and the body in some of the major cities, with a focus on Lagos, Johannesburg, Dakar, and Douala. It contributes to the ongoing debates around the globalization of fashion and fashion theory by exploring fashion as a genuine urban phenomenon on the continent and among its diasporas. To date, “fashion” and “city” have not been systematically related to each other in the African context and, for too long, a western-centric gaze has dominated scholarship, resulting in the perception of Africa as provincial and its visual arts and textile cultures as static and folkloristic. This perspective is all the more distorted, given Africa’s rich sartorial past. With a huge number of tailors ready to adapt and renew clothing, reshaping garments into contemporary styles, and many cities in Africa becoming hot-spots for a steadily growing and well-connected scene of fashion designers in the past 20 years, the time is ripe for a reevaluation and reconsideration of the fashionscapes of Africa. Leading scholars offer an updated empirical and theoretical foundation on which to base new and exciting research on sub-Saharan fashion, challenging perceptions and offering new insights. Half Title Series Page Title Page Copyright Page Contents Illustrations Contributors Chapter 1: Introduction. Fashioning the Afropolis: Histories, materialities and aesthetic practices Challenging definitions: Fashion and style Fashion and textile (research) in time and space Cities as crossroads of ideas, forms and fashionable styles ‘Fashion and Styles in African Cities’: The project The book’s agenda Histories and archives Materialities and aesthetic practices Bodies and media Acknowledgements Part I: Histories and Archives Chapter 2: Woman in a white tobe: Activism, nostalgia and a viral image in Sudan The politics of authenticity Centres and peripheries: The interweaving of fashion and activism Nostalgia and bodily belonging At the edges of authenticity A new accessory for activism Chapter 3: Afro-Brazilian dress modes in family photo archives in Lagos Afro-Brazilian architecture and material culture in Lagos Yoruba sartorial styles between Africa and the Americas Fashion and family photo albums as alternative archives Sartorial practices in two family photo albums and archives Afro-Brazilian fashion in today’s Lagos Acknowledgements Chapter 4: Tracing threads of time and space in conceptual fashion design in Lagos Refiguring the cultural archive as future memory – Lagos Space Programme Weaving networks and new narratives – IAMISIGO Questioning the norm – Maxivive Of cities and clothes, roots and routes Visual essay: The transformation of ndop fabric from its production in (pre)colonial artisan centres to contemporary urban fashion design Part II: Materialities and Aesthetic Practices Chapter 5: Born to shine: Fashionable practices of refining and wearing textiles in Dakar Approaching surfaces Urban spaces and fashionable display Ennobling and refurbishing: Dyers’ workshops Combining and accumulating: Tailor shops Collecting and recomposing: Fashion designers’ workshops Deepening surfaces Chapter 6: Looking East: Bobaraba Vogue and the sinonization of fashion and beauty in Douala Chinese Bobaraba and the aesthetic of roundness When African fashion and elegance look East Conclusion Chapter 7: Between presence and evocation: Fashion design, photography and place-making in Lagos Fragments of a cartography of fashion in Lagos Sartorial place-making and storytelling in the fashion design of Maki Oh Dressed for architecture Embedded memory and transcended forms in the fashion design of Gozel Green Outlook Visual essay: Cairo ascending Part III: Bodies and Media Chapter 8: Trans-worlding: Fela Kuti’s sartorial rebellion and pan-African influence Fela in Versace, Mandela in a Rari ‘I Know What to Wear but My Friends Don’t Know’: Contra-dandyism, sartorial resistance and space-making Lady – prefigurative worlds of the Africa moderns and the retrofuturist politic Uniform/pluriform – trans-worlding the nation Trans-ing Chapter 9: Our Tribe: The Sartists’ portrayal of post-subculture in Johannesburg Introduction Twentieth-century-style subcultures within Johannesburg Current style post-subcultures in Johannesburg Our Tribe: Case study Conclusion Acknowledgements Chapter 10: Africanfuturist Dakar in Selly Raby Kane’s designs Claiming space for positive self-expression in Dakar The sentient city ‘Alien Cartoon’: Managing time to build communities Africanfuturist atmospheres on Instagram Conclusion Visual essay: From second hand in Lomé to second life in Paris Chapter 11: Epilogue: African fashion, cities and the modernity of tradition Index

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