Digital Pattern Cutting for Fashion with Lectra Modaris®: From 2D Pattern Modification to 3D Prototyping

Description

Design your own original 2D patterns and use 3D prototyping to test your designs, achieve the perfect fit and make quick alterations. Pattern Cutting For Fashion with Lectra Modaris® will guide you from the basics of pattern modification through to 3D realisation, alteration and visual effects, as well as the completion of a finished production pattern. By viewing your garment in a virtual environment first, you will also be able to make design, colour, print and fabric decisions prior to toile making. Workshops include: A basic t-shirt; Dart modification; Darts into seams; Darts into flare; Button wrap and facings; A basic jean; Pleats in a skirt/trouser with pocket; A shirt with two piece collar/yoke; Modelling on the half scale stand and converting pattern to full scale. Cover page Halftitle page Title page Copyright page Dedication Contents Acknow ledge ments About This Book A Bit About Lectra What Is Digital Pattern Cutting? Intro duc tion To Modaris Classic And 3D How To Use This Book Inform a tion For Blocks And Patterns CHAPTER 1 How It Works LEARNING OBJECTIVES HELP MOUSE MOUSE SCREEN LAYOUT KEYBOARD FUNCTION TOOLS SAVING ACCESS PATHS NAVIGATION/OPENING A MODEL SCREEN LAYOUT WITH PATTERN LEARNING OUTCOMES CHAPTER 2 What Is Digitizing? LEARNING OBJECTIVES THE DIGITIZING BOARD AND MOUSE DIGITIZING FUNCTIONS PATTERN PREPARATION CURVE POINT POSITIONING DIGITIZING PREPARATION DIGITIZING PROCESS DIGITIZING TIPS Exercise 2 Digitizing a T-Shirt Block LEARNING OUTCOMES CHAPTER 3 Getting Started LEARNING OBJECTIVES POINTS AND LINES AND THEIR MODIFICATION TYPES OF POINTS – F1 ADDING POINTS PRINT MODIFYING POINTS CHANGING A POINT TYPE FURTHER F3 FUNCTIONS ADDING AND MODIFYING LINES SHEET MENU PIECE MODIFICATION MIRROR A PIECE TO SPLIT THE PATTERN TO JOIN PIECES TOGETHER ADDING FULLNESS EXTRACTING A SHAPE GEOMETRIC SHAPES TO CREATE A ROUNDED EDGE CIRCLES TO EXTRACT AN INTERNAL SHAPE ASSEMBLY/CHECKING PIECES ORIENTATION LEARNING OUTCOMES CHAPTER 4 Moving On –
Industrialization LEARNING OBJECTIVES NOTCHES GRAIN LINES SEAM ALLOWANCE CORNERS STEP IN SEAM NAMING PIECES ADDING TEXT WHAT IS A VARIANT? TO CREATE A VARIANT MEASURING TO MEASURE A LINE TO CREATE A MEASUREMENT CHART TO CUSTOMIZE A CHART LAYOUT TO CALCULATE MEASUREMENTS SIZE REPRESENTATION IN A CHART SIZES SIZE RANGES TO CHANGE SIZE RANGES LEARNING OUTCOMES CHAPTER 5 Introduction
And Preparation
For 3D LEARNING OBJECTIVES A FOCUS ON 3D THE PRINCIPLES OF 3D VIRTUAL PROTOTYPING PATTERN PREPARATION FOR 3D 3D SUBSTITUTE PIECE LINES TO SET AS 3D VARIANT FOR 3D ASSEMBLY/DESK OF STITCHES CREATE PIECE TO STITCH DESK OF STITCHES TO STITCH SEAMS SEAM TYPES DEFINE POINTS FACING EACH OTHER SLIP ON POINTS LAYERS LEARNING OUTCOMES CHAPTER 6 3D Virtual
Prototype LEARNING OBJECTIVES THE 3D ENVIRONMENT PREPARING FOR SIMULATION MANNEQUINS CUSTOMIZING A MANNEQUIN HAIR POSTURE SIMULATION IN THE 3D ENVIRONMENT MOVING AROUND THE SCREEN ASSEMBLY/SIMULATIONIN THE 3D ENVIRONMENT SSEMBLY/ASSEMBLE+ PRE-POSITIONING CURVATURE SIMULATION RELAXATION PULL FABRIC FALL MESH CHECKING ASSEMBLY LOCK MECHANICALPROPERTIES FABRICS TO CHANGE FABRIC IN3D VIEW TO CREATE RIBBING EFFECT ADDING ELASTIC STIFFENING TO ADD OWN PRINT TO GARMENT TO EDIT PRINT ON MANNEQUIN TO CHANGE PLAIN COLOURS ON MANNEQUIN SAVING AND OPENING FROM 3D LEARNING OUTCOMES CHAPTER 7 Confidence
Building
Workshops LEARNING OBJECTIVES BLOCKS AND INSERTING PATTERNS SET ACCESS PATHS 2D PATTERN VARIANT 3D PATTERN PREPARATION (CHAPTER 5) ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5) 3D SIMULATION CHAPTER 6) TO PIVOT A DART DART CAP VARIANT 3D PATTERN PREPARATION 3D SUBSTITUTE PIECE ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5) 3D SIMULATION EXERCISES TO TRY BOTH DARTS INTO CF POSITION DARTS INTO PARALLEL POSITION SET ACCESS PATHS (CHAPTER 1) VARIANT ASSEMBLY – DESK OFSTITCHES (CHAPTER 5) 3D SIMULATION VARIANT ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5: SLIP ON POINTS) 3D SIMULATION OTHER EXERCISES TO TRY USING THE BODICE BLOCK ARMHOLE DART AND FRENCH DART INTO A SEAM SET ACCESS PATHS(CHAPTER 1) VARIANT ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5) 3D SIMULATION SET ACCESS PATHS(CHAPTER 1) VARIANT ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5) 3D SIMULATION FLARED TOP/DRESS SET ACCESS PATHS(CHAPTER 1) ADDING BUTTON POSITIONS TO ADD A SEPARATE FACING TO ADD A GROWN ON FACING BACK NECK FACING VARIANT 3D PATTERN PREPARATION (CHAPTER 5) 3D SUBSTITUTE PIECE (CHAPTER 5) ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5) 3D SIMULATION LEARNING OUTCOMES CHAPTER 8 3D Advanced LEARNING OBJECTIVES TO ADD TWO GARMENTS VISUAL EFFECTS MATERIAL VISUAL EFFECTS MORE FABRIC EFFECTS DIFFUSION/OPACITY/BRIGHTNESS TO SHOW A LINING NOTION VISUAL EFFECTS TO ADD BUTTONS TO ADD OTHER EFFECTS SEAM VISUAL EFFECTS TO ADD TOP STITCHING DETAIL TO CHANGE COLOUR OF STITCH FITTING TO CHECK THE EASE TO VIEW THE EASE TO CHECK THE BALANCE TO TRANSFER LINES TO PATTERN DRAWING LINES DRAWING ON MANNEQUIN OTHER TOOLS IN LINES/MEASUREMENTS TO MEASURE LINES ALTERATIONS TO CUT A LINE PINCH UNSTITCH/RE-STITCH TO UNSTITCH A SEAM TO MAKE MODIFICATIONS TO PATTERN VIEW LEARNING OUTCOMES CHAPTER 9 Advanced Workshops LEARNING OBJECTIVES SET ACCESS PATHS (Chapter 1) STRUCTURED POCKET FLY FASTENING – FACING FLY ZIP GUARD BACK YOKE BACK PATCH POCKET WAISTBAND BELT LOOPS TICKET POCKET A NOTE ON SEAM ALLOWANCE STEPPED SEAM VARIANT 3D PATTERN PREPARATION POCKET BEARER TICKET POCKET WAISTBAND BELT LOOP SET AS 3D BELT LOOP POSITIONS BODY PIECES ASSEMBLY- DESK OF STITCHES BELT LOOPS 3D SIMULATION WAISTBAND FINALIZING THE PROTOTYPE SET ACCESS PATHS (See page 6) FRONT PLEATS BACK 3D PATTERN PREPARATION VARIANT ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES 3D SIMULATION SET ACCESS PATHS (CHAPTER 1) FRONT PLEATS WAISTBAND VARIANT 3D SUBSTITUTE PIECE ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES 3D SIMULATION SET ACCESS PATHS (CHAPTER 1) BUTTON WRAP/GROWN ON FACING/PLACKET BUTTON POSITIONS YOKE COLLAR CREATION SLEEVE, PLACKET AND CUFF SLEEVE SLEEVE PLACKET CUFF VARIANT 3D PATTERN PREPARATION ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES 3D SIMULATION SET ACCESS PATHS (CHAPTER 1) ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES 3D SIMULATION DRAPE/SCALE TO APPLY SCALE LEARNING OUTCOMES CHAPTER 10 Quick Reference Guide